Enbetsu Sights: A Yellow Seaside of Ezo-kanzo and Japan’s Northernmost Rice Town

What Kind of Town Is Enbetsu (遠別町)?

Enbetsu is a town in the northern part of the Rumoi region of Hokkaido, facing the Sea of Japan. National Route 232 runs along the coast, and the town sits along the Sea of Japan Orora Line drive. It is said to be home to Japan’s northernmost rice paddies, where rice growing has continued on cold northern land.

This article introduces the sights of the town in order of latitude, that is, from north to south: from the site of an abandoned railway station to a roadside station, a seaside park and a coastal flower meadow. It is not a major tourist destination, but it is a town thick with the Sea of Japan wind and the scent of history.

1. Site of Enbetsu Station (遠別駅跡)

Enbetsu Station opened in 1936 (Showa 11) when the Teshio Line was extended. When the Haboro Line was completed in 1958, it became a station along the way. It was a major station where the express train “Haboro” stopped, but it was closed on March 30, 1987, together with the entire Haboro Line. The average number of passengers getting on and off per day in fiscal 1981 is recorded as 321.

The name “Enbetsu” is said to come from the Ainu word “Wenpet (ウェンペッ)”, meaning “bad river.” What exactly was bad about it is unclear: the explorer Matsuura Takeshiro noted that “fish are very scarce,” while Japanese National Railways materials say “the water quality is poor and undrinkable.” There is more than one theory, and the mystery of the place name has become part of the town’s character.

The station site is now a bus terminal served by Enkan Bus. No remains such as the station building or platform are reported to survive. A shunting locomotive once used at the station is said to be preserved at the town’s local history museum. It is striking that, even after the railway left, the place has remained a point where people come and go.

2. Roadside Station Enbetsu Fujimi (道の駅 えんべつ富士見)

Roadside Station Enbetsu Fujimi is a roadside station in the Fujimi district along the Sea of Japan Orora Line. Its predecessor, “Roadside Station Fujimi,” was registered in 1993 (Heisei 5). It was one of the first roadside stations registered in Japan, and more than thirty years after opening it serves as the town’s gateway.

The station’s specialties include dishes made with Enbetsu octopus, and the “Enbetsu croquette,” made with local potatoes, scallops and octopus legs. The croquette is said to have won the grand prize at the town’s B-grade gourmet contest. There are also rice-flour noodles made with local glutinous rice, so you can taste the town’s identity as Japan’s northernmost glutinous rice producer.

In autumn, glutinous rice grown by students of Enbetsu Agricultural High School is sometimes on sale. Souvenirs are plentiful too, including sweets and sake from the local area, Rumoi and Soya, and frozen seafood. Product lineups and opening hours change easily, so please check the latest information before you go.

3. Fujimigaoka Park (富士見ヶ丘公園)

Fujimigaoka Park is a town-run park just south of Enbetsu’s town center, and it also has a campground. In summer it is a place to spend time in nature close to the sea, and it is loved by townspeople and travelers alike.

This stretch of coast is also where the town’s history began. The first person on record is Shirahata Gentaro, who began fishing on the Fujimi coast in 1887 (Meiji 20) and also took up farming. In 1897, a group of settlers from Echizen, in what is now Fukui Prefecture, entered the Kyoei district, and this is regarded as the founding of the town.

The town also has a swimming beach, “Minakurubi-chi,” developed in 2001. It is open only during the short summer, so please check the season in advance. The waves along the coast can get high, so watch the weather and sea conditions when swimming or strolling.

4. Kanaura Wild Flower Garden (金浦原生花園)

Kanaura Wild Flower Garden is a flower meadow by the sea, about a ten-minute drive south from the center of Enbetsu along National Route 232. The star is the Ezo-kanzo (Hemerocallis esculenta, a type of daylily), which blooms all at once from mid to late June and looks like a yellow carpet spread across the ground. Each flower withers in a day, so the scenery changes with the time of day you visit.

Wild Isotsutsuji (marsh Labrador tea), with its small white flowers, and purple Hio-ogi-ayame (Iris setosa) also grow here. Isotsutsuji is a guide for June to July, and Hio-ogi-ayame for about June to August. On a clear day, Mount Rishiri-Fuji appears across the sea, and its contrast with the yellow flowers is famous for its beauty.

The meadow lies on the coast facing the highway, so please watch for cars when crossing the road. It is also important not to pick the flowers or trample them. The best viewing time shifts from year to year, so please check the town’s latest information before you go.

5. Site of Utakoshi Station (歌越駅跡)

Utakoshi Station opened in 1958 (Showa 33) with the extension of the Haboro Line. In 1970 it stopped handling freight and baggage and became an unstaffed station. It was closed in 1987 along with the entire Haboro Line. It was not a station where express trains stopped, but a small station that supported local life.

The origin of the station name is presumed to be the Ainu word “Otakushpet (オタクㇱペッ)”, meaning “a river passing through a sandy beach.” Matsuura Takeshiro recorded it as “Wotakoshibetsu” in his Nishi-Ezo Nisshi (Diary of Western Ezo) and understood it to mean “a river that crosses over sand.” The relationship between the sandy coast and the river seems to have remained in the name of the place.

When visiting the site, please be considerate of the surrounding homes and farmland, and do not enter private land. If you want to trace memories of a journey on the Haboro Line, it is best to visit together with the bus terminal at the site of Enbetsu Station.

Local Specialties, Food and Drink

Enbetsu’s specialty is, first of all, octopus. Boiled giant Pacific octopus, octopus fried rice and octopus rice are among the dishes introduced. The “Enbetsu croquette,” made with local potatoes, scallops and octopus legs, is also popular and is a leading example of the town’s B-grade gourmet food.

The town’s other face is Japan’s northernmost glutinous rice. In 1982 (Showa 57) the town switched production from non-glutinous rice to glutinous rice and has since developed as a glutinous rice district. Students at the local high school also take part in growing it. There are also rice-flour udon and ramen made with glutinous rice. Availability changes easily, so please check the latest information before you go.

Rare Creatures and Nature

The Enbetsu River, the Otakoshibetsu River and the Utsutsu River flow through the town into the Sea of Japan. In the mountains rise Mount Pisshiri (1,032 meters), Mount Dozemushi (854.8 meters) and Mount Shitotomushimenu (799 meters). Mount Pisshiri also spans Haboro and Horokanai.

On the coastal flower meadow, the Ezo-kanzo, Isotsutsuji and Hio-ogi-ayame mentioned above color the seasons. The town’s mascot is “Momochin,” modeled on the Ezo flying squirrel. This is our speculation, but it may express affection for the small creatures that live in the town’s forests.

The town is designated as a special heavy-snowfall area, and winters are harsh, with days of around minus 20 degrees Celsius not unusual. Please be careful about road conditions in winter.

Other Notable Things About This Town

There are several theories about the Ainu origin of the town’s name. It is thought to mean “bad river,” but other theories read it as “together, talk, river” or “a forked river.” What exactly was bad is unknown, and it is regarded as one of the mysteries of the place name.

The town’s founding dates to 1897, when a group of settlers from Echizen in Fukui Prefecture entered the Kyoei district. In 1903 it split off from Teshio Village to become Enbetsu Village, and it became a town in 1949. Because of the settlers’ ties, private groups have kept up exchanges with the Kamiyama district of Echizen City, Fukui Prefecture, since the 100th anniversary of the town’s founding in 1997.

There are international ties as well: in 1989 the town formed a sister-city partnership with Castlegar, Canada. Though small, it is a lively town, and its elementary school volleyball team has even competed in national tournaments.

The Night Side: Ghost Stories and Haunted Spots of This Town

So far we have traced the daytime face of Enbetsu from north to south: the sites of abandoned railway stations, the wind sinking into the Sea of Japan, a sea of yellow flowers. Every one of these places holds layers of time lived by people on the northern seaside.

As for a night side, we have not been able to confirm any ghost story or haunted spot that can be identified with this town. In our view, the fact that the origin of the name “bad river” remains unknown may be the deepest mystery of this town. Coastlines and abandoned station sites at night have poor footing and are dangerous, so we do not recommend searching for them.

At KARASU CHANNEL, we publish true ghost stories and haunted spots not to encourage visits but to keep a record. Now that you know the daytime scenery, please read the night stories as well.

Before You Go

Opening hours, fees, closing days and access change easily, so they are not listed in this article. Before you go, please check the latest information on the official websites of each facility or local government. Some places may be restricted from entry because of weather or disasters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What is Enbetsu most famous for?

A. It is known as the location of Japan’s northernmost rice paddies, for local gourmet food made with octopus, and for the Ezo-kanzo at Kanaura Wild Flower Garden.

Q. When can I see the Ezo-kanzo?

A. The best time is usually from mid to late June. It shifts from year to year, so please check the town’s latest information.

Q. Can I get there by train?

A. The railway through the town (the Haboro Line) closed in 1987. Today, Enkan Bus and other buses are the center of transport.

Sources consulted
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/遠別町
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/遠別駅
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/歌越駅
https://www.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/kn/tkn/hana/place/n043.html
https://www.walkerplus.com/trend/matome/article/116660/amp/
https://www.hokkaido-np.co.jp/article/1039637/
https://furu-sato.com/hokkaido/486
https://aumo.jp/leisure/areas/737