Teshio Sights: A Port Town at the Great River’s Mouth and Memories in Red Brick

What Kind of Town Is Teshio?

Teshio is a town at the northern end of the Rumoi region of Hokkaido, where the 256-kilometer Teshio River, one of Japan’s great rivers, empties into the Sea of Japan. It is known for its large Yamato clams (shijimi), and the town takes its name from the river. It once flourished as a lumber collection point and was even called one of the core towns of northern Hokkaido.

This article introduces the sights of the town in order of latitude, that is, from north to south: a shrine, a red-brick building, the site of an abandoned railway station, and a park near the river mouth. Let us look over the time this port town has accumulated, in the light of day.

1. Teshio Itsukushima Shrine (天塩厳島神社)

Teshio Itsukushima Shrine stands on the hillside side of the town center and is said to have been founded in 1803 (Bunka 1). In the Edo period there was a trading post called the “Teshiho Basho” at the mouth of the Teshio River, where officials of the Matsumae domain were stationed. This is our own speculation, but the shrine may have begun as a place to pray for the safety of people living by the sea and river at the river mouth in those days.

In 1910 it was moved to its present location. Its festival is held every year from July 16 to 18 and is an important summer event for the townspeople. The name Itsukushima belongs to a faith known for protecting the sea, which suits a port town well.

This is a shrine where people still pray today, so please observe proper etiquette and stay quiet on the grounds. When taking photos, please remember that this is a place of worship. Itsukushima Park is also nearby.

2. Site of Teshio Station (天塩駅跡)

Teshio Station opened in 1935 (Showa 10) with the opening of the Ministry of Railways’ Teshio Line between Horonobe and Teshio. In 1936 the line was extended to Enbetsu, making it a station along the route, and it continued to serve as the town’s gateway after the Haboro Line was completed in 1958. On March 30, 1987, it closed along with the entire Haboro Line.

In fiscal 1981 it handled an average of 405 passengers a day, and it was a major station where the express “Haboro” also stopped. The town office, police station, post office and high school gathered around it, showing that it was the center of town. The town, which had flourished as a lumber collection point, saw river transport lose its role when the railway arrived in the Taisho era, and moved on into a new age.

Roadside Station Teshio stands near the station site. The rails are gone, but today Enkan Bus routes connect the town with other places. The area around the site is where people live, so please be considerate of residents when you stroll.

3. Teshio River History Museum (天塩川歴史資料館)

The Teshio River History Museum is a two-story red-brick building built in 1951 (Showa 26) as the town hall. It has a total floor area of about 730 square meters and was used as the town office until 1979. In 1989 the interior was completely renovated and it was reborn as a museum.

The red bricks are said to have been fired in Nopporo. Perhaps the town’s merchants put the pride of an era of lumber and fishing prosperity into the building. Known as a symbol of the town, it is said that some people come from outside town in the tourist season just to take photographs.

The museum’s emblem is said to feature the sailing ship “Nagato-bune,” which once plied the Teshio River, along with a whale motif. The building itself tells of the history of river transport on the Teshio and the town’s ties to its whale fossil. Opening days can change, so please check beforehand.

4. Roadside Station Teshio (道の駅 てしお)

Roadside Station Teshio opened on June 12, 2003 (Heisei 15). It stands along National Route 232, the Sea of Japan Orora Line, very close to the former Teshio Station. It is a familiar first stop for travelers visiting the town at the Teshio River mouth.

The town’s best-known specialty is the Yamato clam caught at the mouth of the Teshio River. Known for their large size, they are made into many kinds of clam dishes and processed products. Autumn salmon and giant Pacific octopus are also famous. A local dish like a katsudon-style bowl made with octopus menchi-katsu has even been created, and the town’s octopus cooking has been refined through much trial and error.

The town also has sweets such as Teshio River yokan and pudding. Business hours and selections change easily, so please check the latest information before you go.

5. Kagaminuma Seaside Park (鏡沼海浜公園)

Kagaminuma Seaside Park lies south of the mouth of the Teshio River. It is a seaside place of rest with a campground and bungalows. Near the park is a pond called Kagaminuma, and it is introduced as preserving valuable nature.

A statue of the explorer Matsuura Takeshiro of the late Edo period stands in the park. In 1857 (Ansei 4), Takeshiro set out on a journey to survey the Teshio River basin. He is said to have left the Teshio trading post on June 6 and headed upstream, taking 24 days for the round trip. Conversations on this journey are said to have later led to the idea for the name “Hokkaido.”

Every July the “Kagaminuma Shijimi Festival” is held, a summer event where you can enjoy plenty of the clams the town is proud of. As this is a seaside park, please watch your footing and the weather near the water of the sea and the pond.

Local Specialties, Food and Drink

The town’s foremost specialty is the Yamato clam. The large clams caught at the mouth of the Teshio River are known as a local product, and there are many clam dishes and processed goods. The Kagaminuma Shijimi Festival is held in July.

The autumn treat is salmon (akiaji) swimming up the river. Giant Pacific octopus is also a product of the town, and a rice bowl using octopus menchi-katsu was once devised. Among sweets, Teshio River yokan and pudding are introduced. Availability and timing change easily, so please check the latest information before you go.

Rare Creatures and Nature

The Teshio River is the second-longest river in Hokkaido after the Ishikari River, with a length of 256 kilometers. It flows out of Mt. Teshio (1,557.7 meters) and empties into the Sea of Japan at the town of Teshio. Beyond the river mouth, a long sand spit extends toward the Sarobetsu Plain, serving as a natural breakwater.

This river mouth has long been known as a good harbor. A fossil of a gray whale about three million years old was found in the town and named the “Teshio gray whale.” It is introduced as the oldest gray whale fossil in the world, showing that this sea has deep ties with whales.

In the river basin grows high-quality timber such as Sakhalin spruce, which is also used for musical instruments. The town is designated a special heavy-snowfall area, and in winter days below minus 20 degrees are not unusual.

Other Notable Things About This Town

The town’s history is old. A settlement that built pit dwellings is said to have existed near the Teshio River mouth about 3,000 years ago. The Kawaguchi site has remains from the Epi-Jomon period through the Okhotsk culture period, and the pit-dwelling remains are introduced as numbering 230. Two have been reconstructed and are on display.

In the Edo period the “Teshiho Basho” was opened and Matsumae domain officials were stationed there. In the Meiji era, many settlers came from Tohoku and Hokuriku, and the town bustled as a collection point for timber carried down the Teshio River. The establishment of the village headman’s office in 1880 is regarded as the founding of the town, and it adopted town status in 1924.

This area is also said to be where modern commercial whaling was first carried out in Hokkaido. In 1984 the town became a sister city of Homer, Alaska, in the United States, and in 1992 it concluded a friendship exchange agreement with Tomari in Sakhalin Oblast, Russia. Fireworks go up at the Teshio River Port Festival in mid-August.

The Night Side: Ghost Stories and Haunted Places of This Town

So far we have followed the daytime face of Teshio from north to south: the old town hall of red brick, the site of an abandoned railway station, and the park spreading at the river mouth. Every one of these places carries the time of a port town that flourished and changed alongside a great river.

As for the night side, we have not been able to identify any story that stands as a ghost tale or haunted spot. In our view, the river mouth, where river and sea meet, is a place where people have long gathered and then departed. For that reason, the quiet atmosphere of the night seems to hold the memory of lives piled up over time. The river mouth and the coast are especially dangerous at night, so please do not go near them.

On Karasu Channel, we set out true ghost stories and haunted places not to visit them but to record them. Having learned the daytime scenery, please read the stories of the night as well.

Before You Go

Opening hours, fees, closing days and access change easily, so they are not listed in this article. Before you go, please check the latest information on the official website of each facility or local government. Some places may be restricted from entry because of weather or disasters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What is Teshio famous for?

A. The large Yamato clams caught at the mouth of the Teshio River are the best known. Autumn salmon, giant Pacific octopus and Teshio River yokan are also well known.

Q. What kind of building is the Teshio River History Museum?

A. It is the former town hall, built in 1951, a two-story red-brick building. It was reborn as a museum in 1989 and is known as a symbol of the town.

Q. Can I get there by train?

A. The Haboro Line that ran through the town closed in 1987, and today Enkan Bus and other buses connect the town with other places.

Official sites and references consulted
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/天塩町
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/天塩駅
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/天塩川
https://www.hokkaido-np.co.jp/article/1155747/
https://tabi-mag.jp/ho0685/
https://tabi-mag.jp/ho0682/
https://www.hokkaido-np.co.jp/article/1338574/